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Showing posts with label t-shirts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label t-shirts. Show all posts

Thursday, October 10, 2013

DTG vs. Screenprint: A Guest Post by Industry Professional Dustin Devos


Recently, a DTG Awareness reader named Brian made the following comment on one of my posts:

"For anyone trying to market shirts, screen printing is far more cost effective, holds better on the 50/50 and polyester fabrics many customers prefer. Shrunked up 100% cotton shirts are not going to bring repeat business. I understand if you are must selling a few here and there going DTG, but for those who are looking to run a serious business, screen printing is the way to go. I do run a screenprinting shop, so I may be a little biased ;)"


Instead of addressing this comment myself, I have invited veteran industry professional and founder of Angler Skins, Dustin Devos, to give his take.  Dustin's extensive resume includes heavy production of decorated garments for companies such as Bealls Department Stores, Evinrude, and Ranger Boats . He also produces all of the decorated apparel for Animal Planet's "Turtleman" show. On top of all of this, Dustin has the distinction of having been a professional fisherman, and is an official spokesperson for Igloo Coolers. This all said, Dustin has many professional relationships, his work is widely available, and his reputation and financial success hang on making quality products on time.


The Following is Dustin's take on Mr. Power's comment:



I think the very last segment of Brian’s comments sum up his response and I can certainly relate.

If you had asked me six to seven years ago about the vitality of Direct to Garment printing in the apparel market I would have shrugged it off as a fad and simply moved on.  However, being much like my father and always wanting to find something new and different to play with, I jumped in. However, it was a “special situation.”

I was raised on plastisol ink. It’s in my veins, under my nails, and at times I’m pretty sure I’ve sweat mineral spirits.  It’s always been a love/hate relationship for me.  I’ve seen the days of 12-16 spot color jobs with giant Precision Versa Ovals and the days of 4 color electric presses as well.  One thing my father always pushed for in this industry was “a better way.” 

Trying to keep that mindset, when DTG first hit the ground and after my initial laughter, I paused and decided to do a little digging.  Early on it was hard to figure out the reality between hype and marketing.  There was more hype built up about DTG than a cage match between Mike Tyson and Granny from the Beverly Hillbillies. But my curiosity got the best of me and I purchased a DTG from a guy who was having cash flow issues and dove in at a reasonable risk.   After about a week of making several calls to this DTG manufacturing company whose name I had trouble pronouncing, they had me up and running and I couldn’t believe my eyes.

Now let me say, at that time, the learning curve was more like a cliff.  It was a whole new love/hate relationship for me, but I could see the potential.  I had purchased my machine for five grand and after about another thousand dollars in parts and ink and just getting it back on track, it was time to try and sell some shirts.  It only took me two days to find someone who wanted a large number of tee shirts with a Photograph printed on them.  I made enough profit from that first job that it paid for the machine.  So great story right?  Well hold on.  I was still having some issues and there were a lot of variables that kept snake biting me, so I rolled it in the corner, parked it, and there it sat for 5 years!

Fast-forward to today and it’s a whole new ballgame. I now have an entire business segment based solely on DTG.  As I said to begin with, had you asked me some year’s back, I would have had the same response as Brian.  However now a little older, a little more experienced, the advances in the technology, and hopefully a little wiser, my response is this:

Let’s just use Brian’s comments as a basis and I will answer in response to him.

1    “For anyone trying to market shirts, screen printing is far more cost effective…”

I would have to say that this is way too broad of a statement for me.  First we have to compare apples to apples and as we all know there are so many fruits in this business you better make things really clear.  So let’s just look at two examples.

A.      One color white print on a black tee shirt and we will say it’s 48 pieces.
a.       Absolutely, Screen Printing is more cost effective for this print hands down.  The cost of white Plastisol vs. using a DTG pre-treat and a DTG white cannot compare in this example.


B.      9 Color Simulated Process Print on a black tee shirt, 48 pieces.
a.       STOP! You can’t screen print this, or least no one I know would even quote it because of the cost. Screens, set ups, and run times would be so expensive no one would do it.  However it can be printed with a DTG and the client will pay a premium for it just because you said yes. Not to mention the print quality will crush even the best simulated process.

Now adding even more variables to the equation, you may want to sell the shirts in example A via DTG if the person needs them in 24 hours or less because with DTG you don’t need film output. I could spend hours on the cost effectiveness argument, but in my mind it’s a non-issue. It really boils down to what the client wants.  If you have clients that only want large quantity orders of 250 or more pieces then sure screen-printing is currently still the producer.  But if you are like 80% of us who are finding our clients don’t want to order those big quantities, you had better be looking at DTG.
screens, or a trained screen printer.


   “…holds better on the 50/50 and polyester fabrics many customers prefer.”

A couple of thoughts come to mind for me here. One is that again you have to do the research.  Certainly there are some DTG’s whose print quality on these fabrics is not so hot.  But then there are others who have really nailed down the pre-treatments for these fabrics and are doing a great job.  But let me just focus on the two fabrics.
     
A.              50/50 shirts are a blend of cotton and polyester. For this, screen-printing obviously works well, however most people like 50/50 shirts for the feel. They are softer and cooler to wear but have a more natural feel because of the cotton.  Plastisol printing adds that “wonderful” feel of plastic to your shirt. However, when pretreated and printed with a quality DTG you have not only an amazing looking print but a great feel or “soft hand” as well.  Again though, comparing apples to apples, quantities and number of print colors still apply here.

B.              100% Polyester.  I know a thing or two here since we manufacture fully custom, cut, sew, and dye sublimated garments.  My dye sub beats everything else hands down! Sorry screen-print and DTG.  But even now we find ourselves using pretreat and DTG to print 100% poly shirts. Mainly white shirts but still it does a really nice job and it’s all about quantity, not big high ones but small quantity orders.  And you can believe it will only be a matter of time before the chemistry catches up and we will be printing on dark polyester with DTG.

3    “Shrunked up 100% cotton shirts are not going to bring repeat business [sic].”

Okay, I kind of wanted to laugh here, but wasn’t sure if Brian was kidding or not.  The idea that somehow using a DTG “shrunks” up a shirt to me is a bit laughable. (sorry Brian!) We use 20ft gas ovens to cure screen-printed shirts and our shirts exit the oven at around 360 degrees.  So, if I cure a DTG shirt for one minute at 340 degrees in only one area of the shirt, not the entire shirt, how is it that my DTG shirts get “shrunked up” and my screen-printed shirts do not?  Sorry, not trying to be a funny guy, I just don’t get that one!


   “I understand if you are must selling a few here and there going DTG, but for those who are looking to run a serious business, screen printing is the way to go. I do run a screen-printing shop, so I may be a little biased ;) [sic]”

I totally get it; if your sole business is based on screen-printing then this statement makes complete sense.  But for me it’s the reason I have begun to make the change.  We have steadily seen our screen print business shrink due to the economy of scale.  People have less money to spend and they will either spend it on smaller quantities or not spend it.  The second wave is the culture of “ I want it custom and I want it my way and oh by the way, I want it tomorrow”.  As for the serious business comment, I would ask is Custom Ink, CafĂ© Press, Zazzle, and others like them serious businesses?  They make tens of millions of dollars each year and they all run big DTG shops.

At the end of the day, for me, it is clear that DTG is here to stay.  With the rate of speed that the technology and chemistry is advancing, it won’t be long before DTG begins to do things none of us thought it could do.  So I would rather get on the bus now and grow with it then be left standing at the corner with a bunch of screen print machines that I can only use for fishing structure!

And for the record, we screen print, DTG, embroider, dye sublimate, vinyl transfer, and offer cut & sew.  I think we are a serious business!





Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Big Time Oops When Slandering the T-shirt Industry

The irony, the irony

I have been posting regarding an article I read last week in The Guardian. The article demands that people stop wearing T-shirts with slogans on them. This gave me the idea to start a new line of ironic T-shirts which would have slogans and other rubbish that oppose slogans on T-shirts. It is yet to be seen whether or not the general public will get on board with such a venture. The more hilarious news that I have not yet shared is that right next to said article is a link for The Guardian's very own line of... yep... T-shirts... and many of them have slogans on them. Please feel free to peruse their online store: Guardian T-Shirt Online Store

For more proof, here is the screen shot I took where you can see both the Freeman article and the ad:



Of course, you may still be able to go to the article itself and see the ad. 

The Facebook page I created (People Fighting Against Words on T-Shirts) has not taken off yet, but I'm still holding out hope. Here is my latest anti slogan T-Shirt slogan T-Shirt; I think it has a ring to it:


Like the P.F.A.W.T. Facebook Page

Monday, September 9, 2013

Some People Want to Take Away Your Right to Tee Speech!

Hadley Freeman, a fashion columnist with The Guardian, wants you to stop wearing T-shirts with slogans and jokes on them. Quoting some of the more controversial T-shirt slogans, Freeman attempts to build a case against... well, words. Apparently, she finds the entire idea of people having a little fun by saying stupid things with their shirts deplorable. She ends her column with the demand, "So a bit less of the slogans, people, and a bit more of the shhhh."

Freeman has a lot of gall. She works for a large internet publication and her words enjoy wide circulation. What is a guy who works in a factory for 40 hours a week to do when he wants to tell the world of the glories of beer? I know, how about a T-shirt that says, "Save water, drink beer!" The   freedom crushing article is not a complete waste, as it gave me an idea for a T-shirt. It's a good thing I have a direct to garment printer with which to express myself.


Do you understand now, Hadley?

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Digital Passion

Credit: Tumblr
Good advice from the blog of Lara Warmwinter, at Digital Art: 

  "If the T-shirt design related to your colors and photorealistic images, then digital printing should be your primary choice [sic]."

Digital direct to garment printing is the best way to get high quality images, and a high quality feel with gradients. Not to mention the fact that digital DTG is fast. People that have tried DTG are passionate about it. I remember when I was younger and I wanted to get a couple of custom t-shirts made. I had the ideas, but when I went to my friend who owned a t-shirt printing shop to ask about getting them done, I was disappointed. He told me that in order to be affordable on a per shirt basis, I would have to order a large quantity of shirts. The time he would have to invest in making screens, just to do four colors, would be cost prohibitive for only two or three shirts. That was 16 years ago. Today, I can walk in to many shops, and walk out that same day with a custom printed, high quality shirt with gradients, and thousands of colors. And, all for around $20. There are also many online custom DTG printing shops. I can design a shirt from the comfort of my living room, and have it sent to me. When people finally realize the awesome power they have with DTG, the clothing industry is going to be radically changed. Big name corporate clothing designers, meet the Indy artists of the world.

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Planet Money- How Much Would You Pay for a T-Shirt?

Credit: Kickstarter.com
NPR and "This American Life" have a joint project in the works to show how a t-shirt is made from start to finish. The project they have titled "Planet Money", is a fundraising effort, and as of May 14, the project reached it's funding goal. The gist of the venture is the story of how a t-shirt is created from start to finish in order to reveal some of the things going on in the global economy. The team traveled around the world showing the step by step process, from cotton field, to shipping. How much would it cost you to purchase one of these shirts? A donation of $25.00, plus $15.00 shipping. Of course, this is a fundraiser, so one might expect that there would be some padding in the price. But wait! Someone has put one of these shirts up on ebay for $350.00! Will the seller get this price? That remains to be determined. Stranger things have happened. The fact is, people will pay a good price for something they see value in.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

The DIY Mona Lisa

It Started with a Whimper


The "Maker Movement" is getting it's legs and starting to run. At a time when most Americans have become very comfortable being able to find anything and everything they want at a big box store, some are turning back to their own creativity as a means for self expression and gratification. And now, with the availability of smart technology at increasingly lower prices, some "Do it Yourselfers" are turning their initiative into profitable business. What this means for the big picture is that the term "DIY" is broadening to include small businesses that are able to accomplish big things with the right technology. The beauty of this change is that where it may be difficult to find a job working for a large corporation in a given industry, people will instead be able to compete with those corporations by starting their own businesses doing nearly the same things.

 

Exhibit A: The Record Business


A prime example of this can be found in the music industry. The digitization of music and availability of cheap, but high quality recording gear made it possible for virtually anyone with some musical talent to make their own record with a sound that rivals what can be produced in expensive recording studios. Quickly, people found means of distributing their music through online stores, and various music sites. Producing hard copies with beautiful artwork, and impressive packaging also became available through internet companies that sprang up to accommodate the market demand, and this was very popular for a time. Networking to get gigs was also easy, thanks to social networking sites that allowed people to connect and get heard without leaving their living room. The "Indy" genre, meaning "independent" became a force to be reckoned with.

From The University of New Hampshire Law Review, Vol. 10, No 2: "Today...modern consumers share, purchase, and discover new music instantly through the Internet, rather than CDs. In this Digital Age, more independent artists are able to thrive because of decreased market-entry barriers, namely lower costs, fostered by digital music production and distribution." So thorough has this transformation been that the aforementioned review states of the once behemoth record companies "the traditional recording industry dominated by the major labels, is under increased pressure and on the verge of collapse." There is more music available in more styles now than at any other point in history. The marketplace is flooded with sound, and  people are making money from it. The digitization trend does not mean that more people are able to get rich because of the technology, but instead, that more people are able to make a comfortable living doing what they enjoy.

 

Here Comes the Bang

Credit: AnnArbor.com

The book industry is quickly changing as well. Chain bookstores are closing down and one of the pressures placed on them is the digital book market. The introduction of products like the "nook" from Barnes & Noble is a testament to this. It is now even possible to self publish with ease, and distribute one's work without the need of a physical store. The digital side of the Maker Movement is already revolutionizing many markets.

But, there are still some things which presently require physical representation in a way in which books and music do not. T-shirts have this attribute. It is not likely that anyone will be wearing hologram clothing in the very near future. There is, however, a way in which the digital trend is catching up with the clothing market: customization. With the advent of digital direct printing, consumers are becoming increasingly aware of their own ability to create designs and have them printed at an affordable price. Where at one time a local screen printer might be limited to printing a four color design in large quantities, today's print shop can accommodate any number of prints, down to one shirt, and with literally thousands of colors at no additional cost. This allows for print shops to compete with large clothing companies and designers in a way that was not possible just 10 years ago. By offering the coolest designs, and the ability for the consumers to customize, small businesses are able to reach the growing DIY community easily. But, just as iTunes attracts both Indy musical artists, as well as big labels, large clothing companies are also taking advantage of the digital direct-to-garment technology. The high-tech/low cost machine's availability means that a new competitive market has been birthed, one where the local designer has a chance to make his mark without relying on the good graces of big investors. This is the time of the unleashing of creativity onto the marketplace. Which begs the question, "When will you make your Mona Lisa?"

Friday, May 17, 2013

Shaving for Tomorrow: Barbasol Introduces Clothing Line

Credit: vintageads.com

Barbasol is Looking For a Few Good Men... to Wear Their Shirts


Getting in on a multi-billion dollar industry is a smart move. Barbasol shaving cream has decided to capitalize on their iconic brand by adding a t-shirt line to their sales offerings. In a Bizjournal.com article, Barbasol Senior Vice President of Sales and Marketing, Jill Crumbacher states, "We thought, ‘Hey, there might be people passionate enough about our brand that they may want to wear it".

Undoubtedly, Barbasol will sell some shirts. Their status as a household name and their appeal to manliness will generate a certain interest among their many faithful. Their history of splashy ads, and recent foray into the "Shave Like A Man" commercial spots reveal an interesting and creative marketing vision, and at least part of the reason for their incredible success. Unfortunately, a glimpse into their shirt line uncovers a sort of lackluster approach to design. Assuming that the shirts are being screen printed, this is not surprising; actually it makes perfect sense. With screen printing, there are automatic limitations to design. This is because for each color, a screen must be prepared, which takes time. It is also very difficult to achieve gradients, which means that the image has a flatter look. Customization is also out of the question, since just adding something like a name in one color to the shirt would require making a new screen.

Get Close and Comfortable with the Future  

 

The advantage of screen printing is that very large orders of the exact same print are cheap. The profit margin goes up, as the number of shirts ordered goes up. But market demand is catching up with the digital age. The "Maker Movement" is a prime example of this trend. Companies like GE are recognizing the shift toward customization and are helping their customers put a bit of themselves into their products. This development could bode very well for marketers who are always looking for ways to get consumer buy-in. While it may still be possible to create a simple product and count on iconic status to move merchandise, with the increasing public availability of smarter technology, companies that offer products that allow for the "personal touch" can be among the early adopters, and by getting to the consumers first, secure a better market position in the future when customization is inevitably commonplace.

Barbasol has the opportunity to make a show of their status as a company for all generations. Shaving cream may not change much over time. But by adding the digital touch to their already incredible marketing, their shirt offerings could actually add a type of modern relevancy to their brand and a new way to connect with consumers as co-branders.

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Hey Abercrombie, How's That Medicine Taste?

#FitchTheHomeless to Remake Abercrombie & Fitch Brand

Credit: latimes.com
The strength of the smell of cologne and perfume that permeates the air around an Abercrombie &
Fitch store has always perturbed my senses. Their shirtless models standing in the front of the store have seemed a bit out of place as well. Albeit annoying, I never cared one way or the other that A&F had a style they were going for. I agree with the right to build a brand image. Think of all of the clothes, jewelry, and cars you have ever wanted, and you will realize that there was a view that you had of the people who had them, and that was what you wanted for yourself. People typically like to portray a good image. That being said, burning clothes to make sure that the people you don't want wearing them, namely, homeless people, can't get their hands on them, is just a scum of the earth thing to do. Just because you have the "right" to do something, doesn't make it worthwhile. Mike Jeffries, CEO of Abercrombie and & Fitch has let his narcissism get the best of him, and is now the target of a national campaign that is taking the internet by storm. Labeled, #FitchTheHomeless", the crusade was launched by a man named Greg Karber through a video that can be seen here: "


The Reaction

The reaction to the video has been mixed. Some comment that the campaign itself seems bad, as it comes across to them as an exploitation of the homeless. Amy Zimmerman comments on Boringly.com
"So here you go you clueless, ugly, dirty homeless people. Here are some A&F clothes for you so you can be part of my personal "paybacks are a bitch" mission. This whole thing feels uglier than than what the A&F CEO said. Mr. Karber is basically saying these people are so nasty, I am going to "use" them to prove my point because they are too stupid to know what I am doing and to be willing participants in my little scheme. I don't like this. It feel exploitive. I get the sentiment, but just leave these people alone."
Is the #FitchTheHomeless campaign the right way to spread the message? It seems that the answer would be dependent upon what Karber's core message actually is. People are not going to all of the sudden give up on trying to look cool, so don't blame Jeffries for wanting to make his company stand out. But if it is true that Jeffries has the clothes burnt so that the homeless can't wear them, then I say, "that sucks". Getting back at him by giving A&F clothes to the poor might make him change his policy. Then again, Jeffries might just change his manufacturing process to eliminate waste. Perhaps we might just have to accept the fact that Jeffries is a douchebag who makes clothes for douchebags; move on. There is a sale over at Kohl's... better yet, design your own clothes. Just don't forget to give your throwaways to the homeless.



So here you go you clueless, ugly, dirty homeless people. Here are some A&F clothes for you so you can be part of my personal "paybacks are a bitch" mission. This whole thing feels uglier than than what the A&F CEO said. Mr. Karber is basically saying these people are so nasty, I am going to "use" them to prove my point because they are too stupid to know what I am doing and to be willing participants in my little scheme. I don't like this. It feel exploitive. I get the sentiment, but just leave these people alone. - See more at: http://boringly.com/abercrombie-fitch-is-worlds-number-one-brand-for-the-homeless-video_2e77698b7.html#sthash.iifi3PI4.dpuf
So here you go you clueless, ugly, dirty homeless people. Here are some A&F clothes for you so you can be part of my personal "paybacks are a bitch" mission. This whole thing feels uglier than than what the A&F CEO said. Mr. Karber is basically saying these people are so nasty, I am going to "use" them to prove my point because they are too stupid to know what I am doing and to be willing participants in my little scheme. I don't like this. It feel exploitive. I get the sentiment, but just leave these people alone. - See more at: http://boringly.com/abercrombie-fitch-is-worlds-number-one-brand-for-the-homeless-video_2e77698b7.html#sthash.iifi3PI4.dpuf
So here you go you clueless, ugly, dirty homeless people. Here are some A&F clothes for you so you can be part of my personal "paybacks are a bitch" mission. This whole thing feels uglier than than what the A&F CEO said. Mr. Karber is basically saying these people are so nasty, I am going to "use" them to prove my point because they are too stupid to know what I am doing and to be willing participants in my little scheme. I don't like this. It feel exploitive. I get the sentiment, but just leave these people alone. - See more at: http://boringly.com/abercrombie-fitch-is-worlds-number-one-brand-for-the-homeless-video_2e77698b7.html#sthash.iifi3PI4.dpuf